Walking Tour 1--The Old City

Start: Rådhuspladsen.

Finish: Tivoli Gardens.

Time: 1 1/2 hours.

Best Times: Any sunny day.

Worst Times: Rush hours (Mon-Fri 7:30-9am and 5-6:30pm).

Start in the center of Copenhagen at:

1. Rådhuspladsen (Town Hall Square)--You can stop in at the Town Hall, but even more appealing is a bronze statue of Hans Christian Andersen, the spinner of fairy tales, which stands near a boulevard bearing his name. Also on this square is a statue of two lur horn players that have stood here since 1914.

Bypassing the lur horn players, walk east along Vester Voldgade onto a narrow street on your left:

2. Lavendelstræde--Many houses along here date from the late 18th century. At Lavendelstræde 1, Mozart's widow (Constanze) lived with her second husband, Georg Nikolaus Nissen, a Danish diplomat, from 1812 to 1820.

The little street quickly becomes:

3. Slutterigade--Courthouses rise on both sides of this short street, joined by elevated walkways. Built between 1805 and 1815, this was Copenhagen's fourth town hall, now the city's major law courts. The main courthouse entrance is on Nytorv.

Slutterigade will lead to:

4. Nytorv--In this famous square, you can admire fine 19th-century houses. Søren Kierkegaard, the noted philosopher (1813-55), lived in a house adjacent to the courthouse.

Cross Nytorv, and veer slightly west (to your left) until you reach Nygade, part of the famed:

5. Strøget--At this point, this traffic-free shopping street goes under a different name. (Actually it began at Rådhuspladsen and was called Frederiksberggade.) The major shopping street of Scandinavia, Strøget is a stroller's and a shopper's delight, following a 1.2km ( 3/4-mile) trail through the heart of Copenhagen.

Nygade is one of the five streets that comprise Strøget. Head northeast along this street, which quickly becomes winding and narrow Vimmelskaftet, which turns into Amagertorv. Along Amagertorv, on your left, you'll come across the:

6. Helligåndskirken (Church of the Holy Ghost)--Complete with an abbey, Helligåndshuset is the oldest church in Copenhagen, founded at the beginning of the 15th century. Partially destroyed in 1728, it was reconstructed in 1880 in a neoclassical style. Some of the buildings on this street date from 1616. The sales rooms of the Royal Porcelain Factory are at Amagertorv 6.

Next you'll come to Østergade, the last portion of Strøget. You'll see Illum's department store on your left.

Østergade leads to the square:

7. Kongens Nytorv--Surrounding Copenhagen's largest square, and the equestrian statue of Christian IV in the center, are many interesting buildings. The statue is a bronze replica of a 1688 sculpture.

At Kongens Nytorv, head right until you come to Laksegade. Then go south along this street until you reach the intersection with Nikolajgade. Turn right. This street will lead to the:

8. Nikolaj Church--The building dates from 1530 and was the scene of the thundering sermons of Hans Tausen, a father of the Danish Reformation.

Take A Break--A mellow spot for a pick-me-up, either a refreshing cool drink or an open-faced sandwich, the Cafeen Nikolaj, Nikolaj Plads 12 (tel. 33-11-63-13), attracts both older shoppers and young people. You can sit and linger over a cup of coffee, and no one is likely to hurry you. You can visit any time in the afternoon, perhaps making it your luncheon stopover.

After viewing the church, head left down Fortunstræde to your next stop, a square off Gammel Strand:

9. Højbro Plads--You'll have a good view of Christiansborg Palace and Thorvaldsens Museum on Slotsholmen. On Højbro Plads is an equestrian statue honoring Bishop Absalon, who founded Copenhagen in 1167. Several handsome buildings line the square.

Continue west along:

10. Gammel Strand--From this waterfront promenade -- the name means "old shore" -- the former edge of Copenhagen, you'll have a good view across to Christiansborg Palace. A number of interesting old buildings line this street, and at the end you'll come upon the Ministry of Cultural Affairs, occupying a former government pawnbroking establishment, dating from 1730.

To the right of this building, walk up:

11. Snaregade--This old-fashioned provincial street, is typical of the old city. Walk until you reach Knabrostræde. Both these streets boast structures built just after the great fire of 1795. Where the streets intersect, you'll see the Church of Our Lady.

Make your way back to Snaregade, and turn right to one of Copenhagen's best-preserved streets:

12. Magstræde--Proceed along to Rådhusstræde. Just before you reach Rådhusstræde, notice the two buildings facing that street. These are the oldest structures in the city, dating from the 16th century.

Walk across Vandkunsten, a square at the end of Magstræde, then turn right down Gasegade, which doesn't go very far before you turn left along Farvergade. At this street's intersection with Vester Voldgade, you'll see the Vartov Church. Continue west until you reach Rådhuspladsen. Across the square, you'll see the:

13. Tivoli Gardens--You'll find the entrance at Vesterbrogade 3. Attracting some 4 1/2 million visitors every summer, this amusement park has 25 different entertainment choices and attractions and just as many restaurants and beer gardens.